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Author Topic: Apple Snail Care?  (Read 2220 times)

Obsidian

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Apple Snail Care?
« on: January 01, 2009, 12:21:27 PM »
Hey Blue,
Do you think I should let the snails populate in my 10 gallon and then move them over when they are bigger? You clearly have a better idea of how to work with the snails than I do. I'm just learning. They are beautiful and I would like to see them in all of my tanks. I do worry that I don't have enough algae to keep them happy though. The 100 gallon is just very algae free and I have no idea why. I wish it would get some to keep the snails and plecos a little happier. I haven't tried celery yet, so I might try that next.
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Blue

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Apple Snail Care?
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2009, 02:45:03 AM »
Hey Blue,
Do you think I should let the snails populate in my 10 gallon and then move them over when they are bigger? You clearly have a better idea of how to work with the snails than I do. I'm just learning. They are beautiful and I would like to see them in all of my tanks. I do worry that I don't have enough algae to keep them happy though. The 100 gallon is just very algae free and I have no idea why. I wish it would get some to keep the snails and plecos a little happier. I haven't tried celery yet, so I might try that next.
Actually, these apple snails do not require algae but they do take in the soft green algae I culture for my nerites more than anything else. I feed them veggies such as cucumbers, snail jello, fish foods and calcium pills in addition. Calcium pills aren't necessary if your water is hard and alkaline but I do add Tums or Caltrate for healthy shell growth. Calcium enriched veggies such as collards are widely encouraged. I use the Caltrate (with Vitamin D added) only if Tums is unavailable as I don't want to risk them consuming too much Vitamin D which is an oil soluble vitamin that if not ingested can accummulate in the snail's body and become highly toxic. Other things you can provide for the snails are plaster of Paris pucks and cuttlefish bone. Be careful as the cuttlefish bones tend to rot. The plaster of Paris pucks have food in it and the snails gnaw on plaster for calcium. Feeder blocks are like that and provide excellent calcium source.

You can put the egg clutches in a box with a damp paper towel. Keep the eggs warm and humid. The warmer and more humid, the faster the eggs hatch. Usually, it takes 3-5 weeks for the eggs to hatch. Beyond five weeks, the eggs must be destroyed as they're likely to be infertile. My fastest hatch rate was only 8 days with my canas though as the temp of the bucket they are in was kept at 27 degrees Celsius. The babies will eat their way out of the eggs and go into the water. With diffusas, the eggs turn from peachy to white with blue spots (that's their snavels). Cana eggs turn from pink to white. You can also help the babies out by cracking the eggs carefully although it isn't necessary. Babies are usually kept in breeder boxes which I will do soon so I can monitor them better and make sure they are getting enough foods to eat. They can then be transferred in tanks once they reach pea size.

As far as tankmates, be careful. Most fish nip their eyes and antennaes which the snails can regenerate but it's not worth subjecting them to continuous harassments which can kill them quickly. Keep the tanks enclosed as some snails especially when they spawn do try to come out as they look for surfaces to put their eggs on. They tend to suffer severe shell damage when they hit the floor.
« Last Edit: January 02, 2009, 01:51:53 PM by Obsidian »
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Obsidian

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Re: Apple Snail Care?
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2009, 02:00:36 PM »
They go for a long time without doing anything then one day they decide to pick on them. There are a lot of places for them to hide though. I don't want anyone to get picked on though. Sigh.
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YMNRIO (Yes My Name Really Is Obsidian)
YIRDOF (Yes I Really Do Own Fish)

Notes from adolescents:
Are you kidding me?
Uh NO, I don't think so!
Fantabulous!

Notes from my cat:
Meow, yes I did say Meow, and I meant it.
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